Christmas 50 Years Ago

 Rich Harbour in front room of Seal Beach home, ready to leave for Hawaii

Bill Fury - Christmas 1965

Bill Fury -Honolua Bay Christmas week 1965

 

Dave Reed Honolua Bay – Christmas week 1965

Mark Martinson - Honolua Bay 1965

Mark Martinson – Honolua Bay Christmas week 1965

 


While my family was preparing for another Christmas holiday, I was getting ready to head for the north shore of Oahu to get some waves both under my feet and on film. We arrived in late December and got some acceptable surf, and then the place just shut down. With no waves on the north shore, it can get really boring really fast. So we began talking about a surf adventure to a neighboring island – maybe Maui. There were rumors about great surf there but I’d only seen some mediocre waves on film shot in 1964 by Greg MacGillivray. It was at a place called Honolua Bay and the day he filmed it was marginal at best. But the surf was no better than marginal on the north shore of Oahu, so a bunch of us decided that Maui was going to be the ticket.

After arriving and securing a car and some accommodations at a youth hostel a couple of miles outside of Lahaina, we took off searching for Honolua Bay. This was years before the road was paved to it and it took traveling through some pineapple fields to get there. The waves were again marginal, but nobody else was there, so the lack of crowds was a small bonus.

Several more trips led to the same result and the car began to have fewer and fewer people in it. Finally four of us, Mark Martinson, Bill Fury, Dave Reed, and myself made the drive out there and we hit pay dirt. Six to eight foot perfect tubes like none of us had surfed before.

I shot about 4 rolls of 36 exposure slide film and several rolls of 16MM movie film, resulting in a story sold to John Severson at Surfer Magazine. This place was too easy to get to, to not be popularized and I was the one to expose it.

FLASH BACK FRIDAY / 1968

One of our favorite ads from 1968 published in SURFER Magazine  / January Volume No. 9

How things used to get done… Pen, Paper and a Postage Stamp!

SURFER Magazine / January Volume No. 9

SURFER Magazine / January Volume No. 9

Dear Rich,

Just returned from a side trip to Portugal.  Found some great surf at a place called “Sagres.”

The board I’m going to describe – I would like to have in Puerto Rico.

Foil type thickness.  Thickest part forward.  Widest part forward.  No hard edges except for last foot.  Straightest tail possible with pointed egg shape rail.  Give boat type belly with extra kick.  Not too far back right at the end.

Length 7’8”

Width 22 ¼”

Nose 17 1//4”

Tail-Radial look – 14-15 – slight hip

Thickness 3 ¼”

Rail thickness med-mild – 50/50 stock

Tail Block – rounded

Fin – Long and flexible.  Thinned out

 (Followed with 4 stick man drawings of Old Trim and New Trim.  Old Track and New Track with “full on brodie control”)

 This idea may seem a little far out but at least we can give it a try.  I will phone you from New York and find out where you sent the board.  We’re on our way to Paris right now.

Later,  Mark